Carding For Absolute Beginners: All about BINs

[d0ctrine]

For Absolute Beginners: All about BINs

---

Welcome to the world of BINs, newcomers. This guide is our response to the flood of messages that weve been receive from newcomers in the carding scene. If you're a noob and you're scratching your head wondering what in the hell a BIN is or why everyone keeps yapping about them, then you're in the right place. If you're no longer new then this guide is useless to you, so go off somewhere.

Lets face it diving into carding without understanding what BINs are is like trying to swim before you know what water is. Youll splash around, maybe even move a bit but eventually youll sink. Thats why were breaking it down piece by piece in language even your technologically challenged grandmother could understand.

In this guide, well cover everything from the basics of what a BIN is to why some seem to work better than others and even touch on how merchants view these mysterious number sequences. So, grab a drink, get comfortable,and prepare to have your mind enlightened. By the time were done, youll be speaking BIN like a native. Lets jump right in.

What are BINs?
BIN stands for Bank Identification Number but do not get confused by the name; it was never only about banks. Think of it as the DNA of a card. These are the first six to eight digits of every card number and contain quite a trove of information, which can decide your success.

Heres what those magic numbers can tell you:
1. The card issuer: Whether its Chase, Bank of America, or some obscure credit union in Nebraska.
2. Card type: Credit, debit, or prepaid, or charge, etc.
3. Card level: Is it a basic card or a fancy-pants platinum? This can affect spending limits and fraud checks.
4. Country of origin: The billing/issuing country.

Now, heres where it gets interesting for us carders. That first digit? Its called the Major Industry Identifier (MII). Each card network uses its own MII, which can be a goldmine for us. Heres a quick rundown:

0: ISO/TC 68 and other industry assignments​

1: Airlines​

2: Airlines, financial, and other future industry assignments​

3: Travel and Entertainment (think Amex)​

4: Banking and Financial (hello, Visa)​

5: Banking and Financial (Mastercard territory)​

6: Merchandising and Banking​

7: Petroleum​

8: Telecommunications and other industry assignments​

9: National assignment​

Knowing these MIIs can help you tailor your approach. For example, Amex cards (starting with 3) often have higher limits but stricter security. Visa (4) and Mastercard (5) are more common and might fly under the radar easier.

But heres the thing: BINs are changing. Years ago, BINs were only the first 6 digits. Now, due to the exploding number of card issuers and products, many are moving to 8-digit BINs. This shift can cause some serious headaches for carders.

How so? Because this change affects everything from fraud detection systems to payment gateways. Some outdated systems might still be looking at only the first 6 digits, while others have adapted to the new 8-digit standard. This inconsistency creates a gray area that savvy carders can exploit - or get tripped up by if theyre not careful.

For instance, you may buy a "US card" from a CC shop, only to be rejected by the merchant with the rationale that it is an "international card". This abnormality occurs since some systems have not yet been adjusted to the new 8-digit standard. They may read just the first 6 numbers, which lead to a misidentification. Or it could be the opposite: that the merchant is updated and the shop you're buying from is not.

Understanding this BIN evolution is crucial. It explains why some cards behave unexpectedly and can help you troubleshoot failed transactions. More importantly, it can help you choose the right cards for specific merchants and stores, increasing your success rate.

How Does a Merchant See BINs?
Now, let's see from under the curtain how merchants look at BINs. It is not just a bunch of random numbers; it's a mine of information that might be either your ticket or your poison to carding.

High-quality BIN data is provided to merchants through payment service providers or specialized BIN databases. These are not any crap Excel files, but regularly updated treasure troves directly from the big guys like Visa and Mastercard.

Here's what they're seeing:

1. Authorization Rates: This is important. Some BINs are stars with 95% authorization rates, while others barely scrape by.
Prepaid cards typically have pretty fucking low authorization rates, sometimes as bad as 40%. Because they're usually loaded with just enough cash for a pack of smokes and a scratch ticket. Premium credit cards, on the other hand, are the opposite: high limits, good credit scores, and frequent approvals.
2. Transaction Restrictions: Some BINs come with built-in limits. For example:
Gambling restrictions: UK credit card BINs are blocked for gambling transactions.
High-risk merchant categories: Certain prepaid BINs might be restricted from adult sites or crypto exchanges.
3. Geographical Information: If you're using a US-based BIN but your IP is from Russia, that's going to raise alarms.
4. Card Type and Level: A Visa Infinite BIN gets preferential treatment while a basic debit card BIN is treated like the weird kid at school.

Real-world example: You're eyeing that shiny new PlayStation on an electronics site. If you're using a prepaid BIN, you might as well be trying to pay with Monopoly money. But flash a Chase Sapphire Reserve BIN, and suddenly you're the store's new best friend.

Some merchants even use BIN data to optimize their process. They might skip 3D Secure for BINs with low fraud rates. It's like a fast lane for trusted cards.

Why BINs Are the Backbone of Carding Methods
Now, you're probably wondering why every fucking carder guide and their mother seem obsessed with BINs. Those genius bastards writing this stuff aren't just pulling BINs out of their asses. They have done the legwork, burned through cards, and compiled lists of BINs that actually work on specific stores.

But now comes the time to pull your head out of the sand: don't just blindly follow the lists like some brainless sheep. Your job as a carder isn't to memorize some other fucker's cheat sheet (though you can learn from it). It is to create your own damn list as you experience your own carding journey.

Think of it as your personal carding journal. Every time you hit a home run with a certain BIN on a specific site, jot that shit down. When you face-plant with another, make a note. Over time, you'll build a customized database of BINs you love and shit you despise.

This approach isn't just about being a special snowflake. It's all about efficiency—finding out what works and not pissing away resources. You won't waste time throwing spaghetti at the wall and hoping something sticks; you will have a strategy honed through your own experience.

Remember, the carding landscape is always shifting. What worked yesterday might get you blacklisted today. By building and maintaining your own BIN list you're not just following the herd, you're staying ahead of the game.

So stop being a dumbass who buys any card they can get their hands on. Start thinking like a professional. Your wallet (and your success rate) will thank you. d0ctrine out.

 

[eb303623]

Want to ask some questions might be helpful for others too?

How do people realize or get to know if a bin is non vbv and differentiate them from vbv. But to me honestly, I think we cannot determine if a bin is vbv or non vbv.

Let's take this for an example,
Assuming we both have a card with this bin for example 488484 so let's say it's a visa card we both have.
Now we have two different cards here, Maybe you decided to add a security and I decided not to add a security but we are having same bins.

Here is were the problem comes in, How do people disguise vbv from non vbv bins?. To me I think, the card is either vbv or non vbv but not bins.

I will conclude here.
The site we are trying to card and the card we are using is what we should consider as 2D, non vbv or vbv because we may have the same bin but with different security depending on what we decide to do, you may like to add security to your card and i may not want to (But with same bins) and the site is also what we should consider as vbv or 2D (non vbv.)

I think, We should rather look up to the payment gateway and how to correctly set up for work.

I'm not new though but If I'm mistaking, you can correct me. Thanks.

 

[d0ctrine]

Want to ask some questions might be helpful for others too?

How do people realize or get to know if a bin is non vbv and differentiate them from vbv. But to me honestly, I think we cannot determine if a bin is vbv or non vbv.

Let's take this for an example,
Assuming we both have a card with this bin for example 488484 so let's say it's a visa card we both have.
Now we have two different cards here, Maybe you decided to add a security and I decided not to add a security but we are having same bins.

Here is were the problem comes in, How do people disguise vbv from non vbv bins?. To me I think, the card is either vbv or non vbv but not bins.

I will conclude here.
The site we are trying to card and the card we are using is what we should consider as 2D, non vbv or vbv because we may have the same bin but with different security depending on what we decide to do, you may like to add security to your card and i may not want to (But with same bins) and the site is also what we should consider as vbv or 2D (non vbv.)

I think, We should rather look up to the payment gateway and how to correctly set up for work.

I'm not new though but If I'm mistaking, you can correct me. Thanks.

"The site we are trying to card and the card we are using is what we should consider as 2D, non vbv or vbv because we may have the same bin but with different security depending on what we decide to do, you may like to add security to your card and i may not want to (But with same bins) and the site is also what we should consider as vbv or 2D (non vbv.)"

I don't quite get your point here, but some sites do not support 3DS/VBV/SCA, but they are starting to thin out. The reason is that 3DS approved transactions have what is called a 'liability shift', meaning in the instance of the holder trying to chargeback the transaction (due to fraud) the chargeback won't push through and the funds won't be taken back from the merchant since the liability had thus shifted from the merchant to the holder's bank.

"Here is were the problem comes in, How do people disguise vbv from non vbv bins?. To me I think, the card is either vbv or non vbv but not bins."

There is a multitude of difference between NONVBV BINs. But typically, when somebody says a card is really NONVBV, it simply means the card has no support for VBV. Either it's a small bank, or there are reasons why the bank doesn't rollout 3DS for the specific BIN.

Some cards though, in order to maximize approval rates with online transactions (since some sites refuse cards that do not support 3DS) just runs the transaction through a 'fake' 3DS process essentially 'skipping' the OTP process and approving the transaction (without the 'liability shift' 3DS supports). People tend to call these bins as 'AUTOSKIP' meaning they run through a 3DS prompt, and they skip the request for an OTP/verification altogether. These BINs are great, because you get the added trust for 3DS transactions without needing an OTP from the holder.

Then there are BINs that for some reason just autoskips on a particular store, for a straightforward example say a Costco Card when buying at Costco.

 

[eb303623]

"The site we are trying to card and the card we are using is what we should consider as 2D, non vbv or vbv because we may have the same bin but with different security depending on what we decide to do, you may like to add security to your card and i may not want to (But with same bins) and the site is also what we should consider as vbv or 2D (non vbv.)"

I don't quite get your point here, but some sites do not support 3DS/VBV/SCA, but they are starting to thin out. The reason is that 3DS approved transactions have what is called a 'liability shift', meaning in the instance of the holder trying to chargeback the transaction (due to fraud) the chargeback won't push through and the funds won't be taken back from the merchant since the liability had thus shifted from the merchant to the holder's bank.

"Here is were the problem comes in, How do people disguise vbv from non vbv bins?. To me I think, the card is either vbv or non vbv but not bins."

There is a multitude of difference between NONVBV BINs. But typically, when somebody says a card is really NONVBV, it simply means the card has no support for VBV. Either it's a small bank, or there are reasons why the bank doesn't rollout 3DS for the specific BIN.

Some cards though, in order to maximize approval rates with online transactions (since some sites refuse cards that do not support 3DS) just runs the transaction through a 'fake' 3DS process essentially 'skipping' the OTP process and approving the transaction (without the 'liability shift' 3DS supports). People tend to call these bins as 'AUTOSKIP' meaning they run through a 3DS prompt, and they skip the request for an OTP/verification altogether. These BINs are great, because you get the added trust for 3DS transactions without needing an OTP from the holder.

Then there are BINs that for some reason just autoskips on a particular store, for a straightforward example say a Costco Card when buying at Costco.

Understood bro. Thanks

 

[dkpk117]

Thank you for this very informative topic.

 

[vellidon1]

can you share where you go to gain knowledge/research everything carding related?

 

[frankdavid1]

For Absolute Beginners: All about BINs

---

Welcome to the world of BINs, newcomers. This guide is our response to the flood of messages that weve been receive from newcomers in the carding scene. If you're a noob and you're scratching your head wondering what in the hell a BIN is or why everyone keeps yapping about them, then you're in the right place. If you're no longer new then this guide is useless to you, so go off somewhere.

Lets face it diving into carding without understanding what BINs are is like trying to swim before you know what water is. Youll splash around, maybe even move a bit but eventually youll sink. Thats why were breaking it down piece by piece in language even your technologically challenged grandmother could understand.

In this guide, well cover everything from the basics of what a BIN is to why some seem to work better than others and even touch on how merchants view these mysterious number sequences. So, grab a drink, get comfortable,and prepare to have your mind enlightened. By the time were done, youll be speaking BIN like a native. Lets jump right in.

What are BINs?
BIN stands for Bank Identification Number but do not get confused by the name; it was never only about banks. Think of it as the DNA of a card. These are the first six to eight digits of every card number and contain quite a trove of information, which can decide your success.

Heres what those magic numbers can tell you:
1. The card issuer: Whether its Chase, Bank of America, or some obscure credit union in Nebraska.
2. Card type: Credit, debit, or prepaid, or charge, etc.
3. Card level: Is it a basic card or a fancy-pants platinum? This can affect spending limits and fraud checks.
4. Country of origin: The billing/issuing country.

Now, heres where it gets interesting for us carders. That first digit? Its called the Major Industry Identifier (MII). Each card network uses its own MII, which can be a goldmine for us. Heres a quick rundown:

0: ISO/TC 68 and other industry assignments​

1: Airlines​

2: Airlines, financial, and other future industry assignments​

3: Travel and Entertainment (think Amex)​

4: Banking and Financial (hello, Visa)​

5: Banking and Financial (Mastercard territory)​

6: Merchandising and Banking​

7: Petroleum​

8: Telecommunications and other industry assignments​

9: National assignment​

Knowing these MIIs can help you tailor your approach. For example, Amex cards (starting with 3) often have higher limits but stricter security. Visa (4) and Mastercard (5) are more common and might fly under the radar easier.

But heres the thing: BINs are changing. Years ago, BINs were only the first 6 digits. Now, due to the exploding number of card issuers and products, many are moving to 8-digit BINs. This shift can cause some serious headaches for carders.

How so? Because this change affects everything from fraud detection systems to payment gateways. Some outdated systems might still be looking at only the first 6 digits, while others have adapted to the new 8-digit standard. This inconsistency creates a gray area that savvy carders can exploit - or get tripped up by if theyre not careful.

For instance, you may buy a "US card" from a CC shop, only to be rejected by the merchant with the rationale that it is an "international card". This abnormality occurs since some systems have not yet been adjusted to the new 8-digit standard. They may read just the first 6 numbers, which lead to a misidentification. Or it could be the opposite: that the merchant is updated and the shop you're buying from is not.

Understanding this BIN evolution is crucial. It explains why some cards behave unexpectedly and can help you troubleshoot failed transactions. More importantly, it can help you choose the right cards for specific merchants and stores, increasing your success rate.

How Does a Merchant See BINs?
Now, let's see from under the curtain how merchants look at BINs. It is not just a bunch of random numbers; it's a mine of information that might be either your ticket or your poison to carding.

payment service providers or specialized BIN databases. These are not any crap Excel files, but regularly updated treasure troves directly from the big guys like Visa and Mastercard.

Here's what they're seeing:

1. Authorization Rates: This is important. Some BINs are stars with 95% authorization rates, while others barely scrape by.
Prepaid cards typically have pretty fucking low authorization rates, sometimes as bad as 40%. Because they're usually loaded with just enough cash for a pack of smokes and a scratch ticket. Premium credit cards, on the other hand, are the opposite: high limits, good credit scores, and frequent approvals.
2. Transaction Restrictions: Some BINs come with built-in limits. For example:
Gambling restrictions: UK credit card BINs are blocked for gambling transactions.
High-risk merchant categories: Certain prepaid BINs might be restricted from adult sites or crypto exchanges.
3. Geographical Information: If you're using a US-based BIN but your IP is from Russia, that's going to raise alarms.
4. Card Type and Level: A Visa Infinite BIN gets preferential treatment while a basic debit card BIN is treated like the weird kid at school.

Real-world example: You're eyeing that shiny new PlayStation on an electronics site. If you're using a prepaid BIN, you might as well be trying to pay with Monopoly money. But flash a Chase Sapphire Reserve BIN, and suddenly you're the store's new best friend.

Some merchants even use BIN data to optimize their process. They might skip 3D Secure for BINs with low fraud rates. It's like a fast lane for trusted cards.

Why BINs Are the Backbone of Carding Methods
Now, you're probably wondering why every fucking carder guide and their mother seem obsessed with BINs. Those genius bastards writing this stuff aren't just pulling BINs out of their asses. They have done the legwork, burned through cards, and compiled lists of BINs that actually work on specific stores.

But now comes the time to pull your head out of the sand: don't just blindly follow the lists like some brainless sheep. Your job as a carder isn't to memorize some other fucker's cheat sheet (though you can learn from it). It is to create your own damn list as you experience your own carding journey.

Think of it as your personal carding journal. Every time you hit a home run with a certain BIN on a specific site, jot that shit down. When you face-plant with another, make a note. Over time, you'll build a customized database of BINs you love and shit you despise.

This approach isn't just about being a special snowflake. It's all about efficiency—finding out what works and not pissing away resources. You won't waste time throwing spaghetti at the wall and hoping something sticks; you will have a strategy honed through your own experience.

Remember, the carding landscape is always shifting. What worked yesterday might get you blacklisted today. By building and maintaining your own BIN list you're not just following the herd, you're staying ahead of the game.

So stop being a dumbass who buys any card they can get their hands on. Start thinking like a professional. Your wallet (and your success rate) will thank you. d0ctrine out.

For Absolute Beginners: All about BINs

---

Welcome to the world of BINs, newcomers. This guide is our response to the flood of messages that weve been receive from newcomers in the carding scene. If you're a noob and you're scratching your head wondering what in the hell a BIN is or why everyone keeps yapping about them, then you're in the right place. If you're no longer new then this guide is useless to you, so go off somewhere.

Lets face it diving into carding without understanding what BINs are is like trying to swim before you know what water is. Youll splash around, maybe even move a bit but eventually youll sink. Thats why were breaking it down piece by piece in language even your technologically challenged grandmother could understand.

In this guide, well cover everything from the basics of what a BIN is to why some seem to work better than others and even touch on how merchants view these mysterious number sequences. So, grab a drink, get comfortable,and prepare to have your mind enlightened. By the time were done, youll be speaking BIN like a native. Lets jump right in.

What are BINs?
BIN stands for Bank Identification Number but do not get confused by the name; it was never only about banks. Think of it as the DNA of a card. These are the first six to eight digits of every card number and contain quite a trove of information, which can decide your success.

Heres what those magic numbers can tell you:
1. The card issuer: Whether its Chase, Bank of America, or some obscure credit union in Nebraska.
2. Card type: Credit, debit, or prepaid, or charge, etc.
3. Card level: Is it a basic card or a fancy-pants platinum? This can affect spending limits and fraud checks.
4. Country of origin: The billing/issuing country.

Now, heres where it gets interesting for us carders. That first digit? Its called the Major Industry Identifier (MII). Each card network uses its own MII, which can be a goldmine for us. Heres a quick rundown:

0: ISO/TC 68 and other industry assignments​

1: Airlines​

2: Airlines, financial, and other future industry assignments​

3: Travel and Entertainment (think Amex)​

4: Banking and Financial (hello, Visa)​

5: Banking and Financial (Mastercard territory)​

6: Merchandising and Banking​

7: Petroleum​

8: Telecommunications and other industry assignments​

9: National assignment​

Knowing these MIIs can help you tailor your approach. For example, Amex cards (starting with 3) often have higher limits but stricter security. Visa (4) and Mastercard (5) are more common and might fly under the radar easier.

But heres the thing: BINs are changing. Years ago, BINs were only the first 6 digits. Now, due to the exploding number of card issuers and products, many are moving to 8-digit BINs. This shift can cause some serious headaches for carders.

How so? Because this change affects everything from fraud detection systems to payment gateways. Some outdated systems might still be looking at only the first 6 digits, while others have adapted to the new 8-digit standard. This inconsistency creates a gray area that savvy carders can exploit - or get tripped up by if theyre not careful.

For instance, you may buy a "US card" from a CC shop, only to be rejected by the merchant with the rationale that it is an "international card". This abnormality occurs since some systems have not yet been adjusted to the new 8-digit standard. They may read just the first 6 numbers, which lead to a misidentification. Or it could be the opposite: that the merchant is updated and the shop you're buying from is not.

Understanding this BIN evolution is crucial. It explains why some cards behave unexpectedly and can help you troubleshoot failed transactions. More importantly, it can help you choose the right cards for specific merchants and stores, increasing your success rate.

How Does a Merchant See BINs?
Now, let's see from under the curtain how merchants look at BINs. It is not just a bunch of random numbers; it's a mine of information that might be either your ticket or your poison to carding.

payment service providers or specialized BIN databases. These are not any crap Excel files, but regularly updated treasure troves directly from the big guys like Visa and Mastercard.

Here's what they're seeing:

1. Authorization Rates: This is important. Some BINs are stars with 95% authorization rates, while others barely scrape by.
Prepaid cards typically have pretty fucking low authorization rates, sometimes as bad as 40%. Because they're usually loaded with just enough cash for a pack of smokes and a scratch ticket. Premium credit cards, on the other hand, are the opposite: high limits, good credit scores, and frequent approvals.
2. Transaction Restrictions: Some BINs come with built-in limits. For example:
Gambling restrictions: UK credit card BINs are blocked for gambling transactions.
High-risk merchant categories: Certain prepaid BINs might be restricted from adult sites or crypto exchanges.
3. Geographical Information: If you're using a US-based BIN but your IP is from Russia, that's going to raise alarms.
4. Card Type and Level: A Visa Infinite BIN gets preferential treatment while a basic debit card BIN is treated like the weird kid at school.

Real-world example: You're eyeing that shiny new PlayStation on an electronics site. If you're using a prepaid BIN, you might as well be trying to pay with Monopoly money. But flash a Chase Sapphire Reserve BIN, and suddenly you're the store's new best friend.

Some merchants even use BIN data to optimize their process. They might skip 3D Secure for BINs with low fraud rates. It's like a fast lane for trusted cards.

Why BINs Are the Backbone of Carding Methods
Now, you're probably wondering why every fucking carder guide and their mother seem obsessed with BINs. Those genius bastards writing this stuff aren't just pulling BINs out of their asses. They have done the legwork, burned through cards, and compiled lists of BINs that actually work on specific stores.

But now comes the time to pull your head out of the sand: don't just blindly follow the lists like some brainless sheep. Your job as a carder isn't to memorize some other fucker's cheat sheet (though you can learn from it). It is to create your own damn list as you experience your own carding journey.

Think of it as your personal carding journal. Every time you hit a home run with a certain BIN on a specific site, jot that shit down. When you face-plant with another, make a note. Over time, you'll build a customized database of BINs you love and shit you despise.

This approach isn't just about being a special snowflake. It's all about efficiency—finding out what works and not pissing away resources. You won't waste time throwing spaghetti at the wall and hoping something sticks; you will have a strategy honed through your own experience.

Remember, the carding landscape is always shifting. What worked yesterday might get you blacklisted today. By building and maintaining your own BIN list you're not just following the herd, you're staying ahead of the game.

So stop being a dumbass who buys any card they can get their hands on. Start thinking like a professional. Your wallet (and your success rate) will thank you. d0ctrine out.

can you do an article on how to generate cards with bins and not die trying and how to get bins that work in some pages or maybe information on sites where I can buy bins that work for specific pages.

 

[d0ctrine]

can you do an article on how to generate cards with bins and not die trying and how to get bins that work in some pages or maybe information on sites where I can buy bins that work for specific pages.

It's a waste of time, and only morons generates cards to be honest. Read my latest writeup:

https://crdpro.cc/threads/binners-the-clowns-of-the-carding-world.45299/