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Carding ? Live Carding Demo (LCD): Carding Nike.com ?



d0ctrine

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LCD: Live Carding Demo - a new series I'm kicking off to show you newbies how this shit actually goes down.



We're gonna hit two shops a week, starting with Nike.com. Why Nike? 'Cause everyone wants those sweet kicks, and it's a good starter for learning the ropes.

These guides are for newbies: No fancy talk, just the basics of how to card without fucking up. If you're already pro at this, you might pick up a trick or two, but don't expect any groundbreaking shit.
Let's see if we can score some kicks without getting our asses caught. Remember, this ain't just about getting free stuff. It's about understanding the system, finding the weak spots, and exploiting them. That's the real game here.

Requirements
A working US card - not just any card, but one that's fresh and hasn't been burned on other sites
A drop preferably near your card's billing address - this helps avoid red flags
Residential proxies that match your card's billing address - don't cheap out on this, it's crucial. Read my other guides to understand proxies more.​
A decent antidetect browser​

Recon

First step is recon. You gotta understand the shop's security and payment setup. This ain't optional, it's fucking crucial.
Try checking out with a dead card and watch the HTTP requests in your browser's dev tools or Burp suite.
Most rookies skip this part. Don't be stupid. Knowledge is your best weapon in this game.

Nike.

Looking at the HTTP requests, Nike's pretty basic. No fancy fraud detection shit like Forter or Signifyd. Just some analytics, no behavioral analysis. That's good for us. But don't get cocky - even the most basic sites are hard to pull off if your setup is dumpster garbage.




Testing with a dead card shows they submit sensor data. Translation: they log your checkout actions and fingerprint. So no copy-pasting, and always use a fresh profile and session for each attempt. This is where your antidetect browser earns its keep.
One more thing - Nike sometimes uses Akamai for bot detection. It's not always active, but when it is, it's a bitch to bypass. Keep an eye out for it as sometimes during fresh drops it asks for some trivia, this is implemented to prevent botters from purchasing.

Exclusive Video Demonstration (WATCH IN FULL SCREEN):


Nike ground rules:

On your first order, stay under $600.
Nike gets twitchy with big orders. Start small, build up slowly if you're hitting the same drop multiple times.​
New account every time.
Don't be lazy and reuse accounts once you get declines and cancellations. It's a pain in the ass, but it's safer.​
Stick to regular shit.
Limited editions and hype drops get more eyes. Sure, the profit's tempting, but it's not worth the heat.​
Match proxies to billing and use good antidetects.
Nike's not stupid, they check this stuff. Your whole operation can get fucked if you skimp here.​
Take your time and type everything.
Act like a real customer, no rushing. Yeah, it's tedious, but it's how you avoid getting flagged.​
Skip the express shipping.
Faster shipping = higher risk. Plus, it looks sus if you're supposedly local but choosing express.​
Guest checkout if you can.
Less info to verify means less chance of getting caught. But some drops require an account, so be ready for both.​

Advanced tips:

If you're using multiple cards/sessions, vary your cart. Don't be the idiot buying the same shit over and over.
Watch out for Nike's release calendar. They sometimes tighten security around big drops, even on regular items.
If a card gets declined, don't try it again immediately. Wait at least a few hours, preferably a day.

This is just the start and it's the easiest. We'll hit harder shops soon. Keep your eyes peeled for the next one. Remember, this game is all about patience, attention to detail, and constant learning. Stay sharp, and maybe you'll make it past the rookie stage.
 
Last edited:

eb303623

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Please I would like to us a question, Do you buy bins or you get bins through try and error?
 

Blacksheep999

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LCD: Live Carding Demo - a new series I'm kicking off to show you newbies how this shit actually goes down.



We're gonna hit two shops a week, starting with Nike.com. Why Nike? 'Cause everyone wants those sweet kicks, and it's a good starter for learning the ropes.

These guides are for newbies: No fancy talk, just the basics of how to card without fucking up. If you're already pro at this, you might pick up a trick or two, but don't expect any groundbreaking shit.
Let's see if we can score some kicks without getting our asses caught. Remember, this ain't just about getting free stuff. It's about understanding the system, finding the weak spots, and exploiting them. That's the real game here.

Requirements
A working US card - not just any card, but one that's fresh and hasn't been burned on other sites
A drop preferably near your card's billing address - this helps avoid red flags
Residential proxies that match your card's billing address - don't cheap out on this, it's crucial. Read my other guides to understand proxies more.​
A decent antidetect browser​

Recon

First step is recon. You gotta understand the shop's security and payment setup. This ain't optional, it's fucking crucial.
Try checking out with a dead card and watch the HTTP requests in your browser's dev tools or Burp suite.
Most rookies skip this part. Don't be stupid. Knowledge is your best weapon in this game.

Nike.

Looking at the HTTP requests, Nike's pretty basic. No fancy fraud detection shit like Forter or Signifyd. Just some analytics, no behavioral analysis. That's good for us. But don't get cocky - even the most basic sites are hard to pull off if your setup is dumpster garbage.




Testing with a dead card shows they submit sensor data. Translation: they log your checkout actions and fingerprint. So no copy-pasting, and always use a fresh profile and session for each attempt. This is where your antidetect browser earns its keep.
One more thing - Nike sometimes uses Akamai for bot detection. It's not always active, but when it is, it's a bitch to bypass. Keep an eye out for it as sometimes during fresh drops it asks for some trivia, this is implemented to prevent botters from purchasing.

Exclusive Video Demonstration (WATCH IN FULL SCREEN):


Nike ground rules:

On your first order, stay under $600.
Nike gets twitchy with big orders. Start small, build up slowly if you're hitting the same drop multiple times.​
New account every time.
Don't be lazy and reuse accounts once you get declines and cancellations. It's a pain in the ass, but it's safer.​
Stick to regular shit.
Limited editions and hype drops get more eyes. Sure, the profit's tempting, but it's not worth the heat.​
Match proxies to billing and use good antidetects.
Nike's not stupid, they check this stuff. Your whole operation can get fucked if you skimp here.​
Take your time and type everything.
Act like a real customer, no rushing. Yeah, it's tedious, but it's how you avoid getting flagged.​
Skip the express shipping.
Faster shipping = higher risk. Plus, it looks sus if you're supposedly local but choosing express.​
Guest checkout if you can.
Less info to verify means less chance of getting caught. But some drops require an account, so be ready for both.​

Advanced tips:

If you're using multiple cards/sessions, vary your cart. Don't be the idiot buying the same shit over and over.
Watch out for Nike's release calendar. They sometimes tighten security around big drops, even on regular items.
If a card gets declined, don't try it again immediately. Wait at least a few hours, preferably a day.

This is just the start and it's the easiest. We'll hit harder shops soon. Keep your eyes peeled for the next one. Remember, this game is all about patience, attention to detail, and constant learning. Stay sharp, and maybe you'll make it past the rookie stage.
You are a true wizard Doctrine ???‍♂️
 

Abraham_Lincoln

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LCD: Live Carding Demo - a new series I'm kicking off to show you newbies how this shit actually goes down.



We're gonna hit two shops a week, starting with Nike.com. Why Nike? 'Cause everyone wants those sweet kicks, and it's a good starter for learning the ropes.

These guides are for newbies: No fancy talk, just the basics of how to card without fucking up. If you're already pro at this, you might pick up a trick or two, but don't expect any groundbreaking shit.
Let's see if we can score some kicks without getting our asses caught. Remember, this ain't just about getting free stuff. It's about understanding the system, finding the weak spots, and exploiting them. That's the real game here.

Requirements
A working US card - not just any card, but one that's fresh and hasn't been burned on other sites
A drop preferably near your card's billing address - this helps avoid red flags
Residential proxies that match your card's billing address - don't cheap out on this, it's crucial. Read my other guides to understand proxies more.​
A decent antidetect browser​

Recon

First step is recon. You gotta understand the shop's security and payment setup. This ain't optional, it's fucking crucial.
Try checking out with a dead card and watch the HTTP requests in your browser's dev tools or Burp suite.
Most rookies skip this part. Don't be stupid. Knowledge is your best weapon in this game.

Nike.

Looking at the HTTP requests, Nike's pretty basic. No fancy fraud detection shit like Forter or Signifyd. Just some analytics, no behavioral analysis. That's good for us. But don't get cocky - even the most basic sites are hard to pull off if your setup is dumpster garbage.




Testing with a dead card shows they submit sensor data. Translation: they log your checkout actions and fingerprint. So no copy-pasting, and always use a fresh profile and session for each attempt. This is where your antidetect browser earns its keep.
One more thing - Nike sometimes uses Akamai for bot detection. It's not always active, but when it is, it's a bitch to bypass. Keep an eye out for it as sometimes during fresh drops it asks for some trivia, this is implemented to prevent botters from purchasing.

Exclusive Video Demonstration (WATCH IN FULL SCREEN):


Nike ground rules:

On your first order, stay under $600.
Nike gets twitchy with big orders. Start small, build up slowly if you're hitting the same drop multiple times.​
New account every time.
Don't be lazy and reuse accounts once you get declines and cancellations. It's a pain in the ass, but it's safer.​
Stick to regular shit.
Limited editions and hype drops get more eyes. Sure, the profit's tempting, but it's not worth the heat.​
Match proxies to billing and use good antidetects.
Nike's not stupid, they check this stuff. Your whole operation can get fucked if you skimp here.​
Take your time and type everything.
Act like a real customer, no rushing. Yeah, it's tedious, but it's how you avoid getting flagged.​
Skip the express shipping.
Faster shipping = higher risk. Plus, it looks sus if you're supposedly local but choosing express.​
Guest checkout if you can.
Less info to verify means less chance of getting caught. But some drops require an account, so be ready for both.​

Advanced tips:

If you're using multiple cards/sessions, vary your cart. Don't be the idiot buying the same shit over and over.
Watch out for Nike's release calendar. They sometimes tighten security around big drops, even on regular items.
If a card gets declined, don't try it again immediately. Wait at least a few hours, preferably a day.

This is just the start and it's the easiest. We'll hit harder shops soon. Keep your eyes peeled for the next one. Remember, this game is all about patience, attention to detail, and constant learning. Stay sharp, and maybe you'll make it past the rookie stage.
Somebody please give this man a cold beer for me ! Excellent Guide !
 

d0ctrine

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Is it better to card in the same city as you or it doesn’t matter? because you stated in the requirements that “A drop preferably near your card's billing address”
Your proxy should ideally be in the same city, yes. Since most fraud systems check distance between the billing and the IP's rough location.
 

d0ctrine

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u use any extension on safari or just default safari
Just default. Safari is privacy focused in itself. If you want to test disabling all analytics install a good adblocker.
 

MrFlimFlam98

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when i order off newegg or somewhere else, it goes through but then gets declined, but when i try again it goes through again but gets declined again, why is that?
 

mindya.biz1

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LCD: Live Carding Demo - a new series I'm kicking off to show you newbies how this shit actually goes down.



We're gonna hit two shops a week, starting with Nike.com. Why Nike? 'Cause everyone wants those sweet kicks, and it's a good starter for learning the ropes.

These guides are for newbies: No fancy talk, just the basics of how to card without fucking up. If you're already pro at this, you might pick up a trick or two, but don't expect any groundbreaking shit.
Let's see if we can score some kicks without getting our asses caught. Remember, this ain't just about getting free stuff. It's about understanding the system, finding the weak spots, and exploiting them. That's the real game here.

Requirements
A working US card - not just any card, but one that's fresh and hasn't been burned on other sites
A drop preferably near your card's billing address - this helps avoid red flags
Residential proxies that match your card's billing address - don't cheap out on this, it's crucial. Read my other guides to understand proxies more.​
A decent antidetect browser​

Recon

First step is recon. You gotta understand the shop's security and payment setup. This ain't optional, it's fucking crucial.
Try checking out with a dead card and watch the HTTP requests in your browser's dev tools or Burp suite.
Most rookies skip this part. Don't be stupid. Knowledge is your best weapon in this game.

Nike.

Looking at the HTTP requests, Nike's pretty basic. No fancy fraud detection shit like Forter or Signifyd. Just some analytics, no behavioral analysis. That's good for us. But don't get cocky - even the most basic sites are hard to pull off if your setup is dumpster garbage.




Testing with a dead card shows they submit sensor data. Translation: they log your checkout actions and fingerprint. So no copy-pasting, and always use a fresh profile and session for each attempt. This is where your antidetect browser earns its keep.
One more thing - Nike sometimes uses Akamai for bot detection. It's not always active, but when it is, it's a bitch to bypass. Keep an eye out for it as sometimes during fresh drops it asks for some trivia, this is implemented to prevent botters from purchasing.

Exclusive Video Demonstration (WATCH IN FULL SCREEN):


Nike ground rules:

On your first order, stay under $600.
Nike gets twitchy with big orders. Start small, build up slowly if you're hitting the same drop multiple times.​
New account every time.
Don't be lazy and reuse accounts once you get declines and cancellations. It's a pain in the ass, but it's safer.​
Stick to regular shit.
Limited editions and hype drops get more eyes. Sure, the profit's tempting, but it's not worth the heat.​
Match proxies to billing and use good antidetects.
Nike's not stupid, they check this stuff. Your whole operation can get fucked if you skimp here.​
Take your time and type everything.
Act like a real customer, no rushing. Yeah, it's tedious, but it's how you avoid getting flagged.​
Skip the express shipping.
Faster shipping = higher risk. Plus, it looks sus if you're supposedly local but choosing express.​
Guest checkout if you can.
Less info to verify means less chance of getting caught. But some drops require an account, so be ready for both.​

Advanced tips:

If you're using multiple cards/sessions, vary your cart. Don't be the idiot buying the same shit over and over.
Watch out for Nike's release calendar. They sometimes tighten security around big drops, even on regular items.
If a card gets declined, don't try it again immediately. Wait at least a few hours, preferably a day.

This is just the start and it's the easiest. We'll hit harder shops soon. Keep your eyes peeled for the next one. Remember, this game is all about patience, attention to detail, and constant learning. Stay sharp, and maybe you'll make it past the rookie stage.
Thanks your the greatest
 

ismarki

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Sorry, I know you talked about the proxy provider 922proxy but it offers me different options. Could you guide me to which one I should choose? ISP Proxies, Static Residential Proxies, Residential Proxies, help me choose the best option, please brother.
 

cupid34

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Sorry, I know you talked about the proxy provider 922proxy but it offers me different options. Could you guide me to which one I should choose? ISP Proxies, Static Residential Proxies, Residential Proxies, help me choose the best option, please brother.
residential is best for puchases of these sorts
 

worldsbosss

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So to use or not to use anti fingerprint broswer? Because I always see you just use safari? I think those fingerprint browsers be the reason for declines or something
 
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